A power supply unit (PSU) is the part of your computer that takes electricity from your wall outlet and changes it into the power your PC parts need. Your wall outlet sends alternating current (AC) at 120 volts in the United States (or 230 volts in other countries). Your computer parts need direct current (DC) at much lower voltages. The PSU handles this conversion.
Inside your PC, different parts need different voltages. Your graphics card and processor need 12 volts. USB ports and some storage drives use 5 volts. Memory sticks and motherboard chips run on 3.3 volts. The PSU creates all these voltages from the single power source coming from your wall.
Why Your PSU Matters
Many people spend lots of time picking out processors and graphics cards, then grab whatever power supply fits their budget. This thinking is backwards. If your PSU doesn't deliver clean, steady power, your expensive parts won't work right.
Key Point: The PSU doesn't just convert power. It also keeps voltage steady, filters out electrical noise, and protects your parts from power surges and other electrical problems.
A low quality power supply might deliver 11.4 volts when your graphics card needs 12 volts. That small difference is enough to cause crashes, visual glitches, or system freezes. The symptoms look like a bad graphics card or faulty memory, so people often replace the wrong parts.
How Power Supplies Work
Understanding what happens inside your PSU helps explain why quality matters. Here's the basic process:
| Stage | What Happens |
|---|---|
| Input | Electricity enters from your wall outlet. Surge protection shields your system from voltage spikes. |
| Rectification | Special parts called diodes change the AC power into DC by making current flow in only one direction. |
| Filtering | Capacitors smooth out the power, reducing ripples and giving stable output. |
| Transformation | Transformers adjust voltage levels to match what your parts need. |
| Regulation | Voltage regulators keep output steady even when input power changes. |
| Distribution | The PSU splits power into different voltage rails (3.3V, 5V, and 12V) for various parts. |
Warning: Never open a PSU. Even when unplugged, power supplies can hold dangerous amounts of electricity in their capacitors. If you think your PSU is broken, replace it instead of trying to fix it.
Voltage instability is the silent killer of PC parts. Your GPU expects a steady 12V supply, but a cheap PSU might deliver 11.4V under heavy load. That's only a 5% drop, but it's enough to cause the GPU to make wrong calculations. This leads to crashes, visual artifacts, or system freezes. The tricky part is that the symptoms look exactly like a failing GPU or bad RAM, so people waste money replacing parts that work fine. Quality PSUs use better voltage regulation circuits and capacitors that keep voltage rock solid even when your system suddenly needs 500 watts during an intense gaming moment.
PSU Wattage
Wattage tells you how much total power your PSU can deliver. A gaming PC with a powerful graphics card might need 750 watts or more, while a basic office PC could run fine on 400 watts.
To pick the right wattage, add up how much power all your parts use and then add about 20% extra. This extra room, called headroom, helps your PSU run cooler and last longer. It also gives you space to upgrade parts later without buying a new power supply.
Typical Power Use by Part
| Component | Typical Power Draw |
|---|---|
| Processor (CPU) | 65W-250W |
| Graphics Card (GPU) | 75W-450W |
| Motherboard | 25W-50W |
| Memory (RAM) | 5W-10W per stick |
| Storage Drive | 5W-10W per drive |
| Case Fans | 2W-5W each |
Power use changes a lot based on what you're doing. A graphics card might use 300 watts during gaming but only 50 watts when browsing the web. This is why having headroom in your PSU wattage matters.
Efficiency Ratings
The 80 Plus certification system tells you how well your PSU converts power. Higher ratings mean less wasted energy and lower electricity bills. When a PSU wastes energy, that energy becomes heat, which makes your computer run hotter.
| Rating | Efficiency | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 80 Plus Standard | 80% | Budget builds |
| 80 Plus Bronze | 82-85% | Most home PCs |
| 80 Plus Silver | 85-88% | Mid-range systems |
| 80 Plus Gold | 87-90% | Gaming PCs, workstations |
| 80 Plus Platinum | 90-94% | High-end systems |
| 80 Plus Titanium | 94%+ | Professional setups |
Here's what efficiency means in real terms: if you have a 90% efficient PSU delivering 600 watts to your parts, it pulls about 667 watts from the wall. The extra 67 watts becomes heat. A 80% efficient unit would pull 750 watts from the wall for the same 600 watts of output, wasting 150 watts as heat.
When Efficiency Matters Most
PSUs work best at around 50-60% of their rated capacity. Running at very low loads (under 20%) or very high loads (over 90%) reduces efficiency. For the best results, pick a PSU that runs at 50-70% of its capacity during your typical use.
Warning: Don't buy way more wattage than you need. A 1000W PSU running at 20% load will be less efficient than a 600W PSU running at 50% load, even if both have the same efficiency rating.
Modularity Types
Modular PSUs let you connect only the cables you need. This makes cable management easier and helps air flow better inside your case. PSUs come in three types based on their cables:
- Non-Modular: All cables are attached and cannot be removed. Cheapest option, but unused cables take up space.
- Semi-Modular: Essential cables (main motherboard and CPU power) are fixed. Other cables can be removed if not needed.
- Fully Modular: All cables can be removed. Most expensive, but offers the cleanest build.
Warning: Never mix modular cables between different PSU models, even from the same maker. The wire layouts inside the cables can be different. Using the wrong cables can damage or destroy your parts.
Protection Features
Quality PSUs include several safety features to protect your system from electrical problems:
| Protection | What It Does |
|---|---|
| OVP (Overvoltage Protection) | Shuts down if voltage gets too high |
| UVP (Undervoltage Protection) | Shuts down if voltage drops too low |
| OCP (Overcurrent Protection) | Limits current to prevent overheating |
| SCP (Short-Circuit Protection) | Cuts power if wires touch wrong |
| OPP (Overpower Protection) | Shuts down if total power draw is too high |
| OTP (Overtemperature Protection) | Shuts down if the PSU gets too hot |
Look for PSUs that list all of these protections. Budget units often skip some of these features, which puts your parts at risk.
Common PSU Problems
Here are the most common power supply issues and how to handle them:
System Won't Turn On
- Check that the power cable is plugged in at both ends
- Make sure the PSU switch on the back is set to "on" (the "I" symbol)
- Verify the wall outlet works by testing with another device
- Check that all power connectors inside the PC are fully seated
Random Shutdowns
- Check if the PSU fan is spinning (blocked fans cause overheating)
- Verify your PSU has enough wattage for your parts
- Look for dust buildup that might cause overheating
- Check system temperatures using monitoring software
Strange Noises
- A clicking or grinding sound usually means the fan is failing
- High-pitched whining (coil whine) is annoying but usually harmless
- Buzzing or humming could signal capacitor problems
- If noise comes with burning smell, shut down immediately
Warning: If you smell burning or see smoke, turn off your computer right away and unplug it. These signs mean serious PSU failure that could damage other parts or cause a fire.
Testing Your PSU
Before replacing a PSU, you can test it to confirm it's actually the problem:
The Paperclip Test
This basic test checks if the PSU turns on at all:
- Unplug the PSU from all parts inside your PC
- Find the 24-pin motherboard connector (the largest one)
- Use a paperclip to connect the green wire to any black wire
- Plug in the PSU and flip the switch on
- If the fan spins, the PSU has basic power
The paperclip test only shows that the PSU turns on. It doesn't test voltage accuracy or how well it handles load. For better testing, use a dedicated PSU tester or a multimeter to check each voltage rail.
Multimeter Test
For more accurate testing:
- Set your multimeter to DC voltage
- Test each voltage rail (3.3V, 5V, 12V)
- Values should be within 5% of the rated voltage
- The 12V rail should read between 11.4V and 12.6V
Choosing the Right PSU
When shopping for a power supply, focus on these key factors:
- Calculate your needs: Add up your parts' power use and add 20% headroom
- Check efficiency: 80 Plus Bronze is the minimum for most builds, Gold for gaming PCs
- Look at modularity: Semi-modular offers good value, fully modular gives cleanest builds
- Verify protections: Make sure OVP, UVP, OCP, and SCP are all included
- Check warranty: Five years or more suggests the maker trusts their product
- Read reviews: Look for professional reviews that test voltage stability under load
Key Takeaway: Your power supply is the foundation of your PC. A quality PSU with proper wattage, good efficiency, and full protection features will keep your system stable and protect your valuable parts for years.